Days 3 & 4: The Great Lone Star State

If any one of you has ever been to Texas, or known (or even just met) someone from Texas, you probably "get" it---as a state, but more importantly, as the mega-empire of Americana that it truly is. The slow-but-steady evolution of the landscape, from verdant fields and paunchy bayous to the sprawling love child of desert-prairie-meets-suburbia, eventually gives rise to a most fascinating geography that continues its bizarre and ever-growing expansion all the way to New Mexico. Physically arid and almost Mediterranean in parts, big Texas personality is never far; from bold advertising to American-made trucks galore, everything speaks with a certain pride and conviction that just has to be respected. As its strong economy, prominent resources, and impressively unified ideology might indicate, the popular slogan Don't mess with Texas is real, and although it's technically one of the biggest anti-littering campaigns in the U.S., the boldness certainly alludes to the notion that the state really could be on its own.

After taking it all in on the road, the first stop on our Lone Star tour was the capital city of Austin, Texas. Now, we had heard that Austin was "weird", and it became apparent why pretty quickly. One of the few progressive hubs in a sea of conservatism, Austin is retro-active, young, and a definite foodie's paradise. After visiting REI and getting some tips, we headed down to South Congress Avenue to check out the food trailers (yes, trailers) and nightlife. After just a quick and promising preview, we decided to instead call a cab from the hotel and enjoy ourselves, under the pretense of thinking there would be enough activity on a Friday night to substantiate the effort. Much to our disappointment, everything closed too early, and bars were few and far between. We did manage to find some outstanding pizza at Home Slice, and afterward placated our sweet tooth with Amy's Ice Cream, which as far as comfort food goes, absolutely helped soothe our sorrows. We really were sore about missing the live music and "trailer park" opportunities, so it looks like that will have to be a do-over on another trip!

Before departing Austin and hitting the road again, we were privileged enough to catch some time with Daniel Ralleo, my roommate of many years in college, who has now become a busy, young Austin professional. Daniel has been in the city for about a year, and knew just the place to take us for a classic Tex-Mex lunch. After marveling at his perfect pad not far from the city (complete with the most picturesque outdoor space), we filled our bellies with Polvos Interior Mexican in town and said our goodbyes once again. The food and company were just what we needed, and even Bella got to enjoy the reunion---Daniel's matching chocolate Chihuahua, Ollie, was her roommate too, and the only one she will play with! Thank you for your hospitality, Daniel, the Texans must be proud!

Leaving Austin only left us with more vast Texas countryside ahead, but once again, that marvelous landscape transition began anew. This time, hill country really blew our minds---not only are its features lovely, but a myriad of mesmerizing fixtures passed us by; everything from vineyards to venison processing outposts dot this enchantingly unique stretch. By night, the visibility of stars is positively exquisite, and something that just has to be seen to be believed! The drive flirts with the Mexican border, and passes through some interesting small towns, like Pecos, the home of the first rodeo. One can definitely see the enduring fascination with the cowboy's lifestyle, but more than anything else, the passage of time there has left behind a consistently unique image of Americana. This image only fuels the interesting and thrilling sensation, already very present on a trip like this, that you are time-traveling, or perhaps creating your very own experience of every era you've ever had an inkling of. This made a good soundtrack, if you're interested.

Passing the occasional Airstream or abandoned school bus, New Mexico and its rural desert charms are getting closer, and we are so excited for the next stop on our journey, Guadalupe National Park and the famous Carlsbad Caverns!

Day 2: New Orleans and Cajun Country

After the seemingly endless expanse of Florida, we passed on through Alabama to see the sights in the Big Easy. We managed to get a fantastic hotel spot right in the heart of the French Quarter (thanks, Priceline!), and after resting up, we took a stroll to Café du Monde to start the day right. If its 150 year history isn't enough of an indication, the café's coffee and beignets are legendary, and its open-patio coffee-stand feel just adds to that quintessential Nola character that we tourists just love to see. The only travesty was that Miss Bella was not allowed on the patio proper...she had to watch the powdered sugar fall from the sidelines, bless her heart.

Neither of us had been to New Orleans in quite some time, nor had we ever been particularly familiar, but the delightfully prominent sounds of live music and bountiful raw, Southern charms are simply irresistible! The alluring antique shops, art galleries and generally pleasing aesthetic, married with that curiously magnetic, gritty appeal that can only be found along tiny rues (like Bourbon), certainly made an impression! 

As to be expected, Nola certainly has a flair all her own---everyone was as friendly as could be, maybe even boldly so! No doubt, there's enough of that infamously crazy bit too: a man had no shame in asking Dani if he could buy our little hot dog in the street, but thankfully my considerate man declined the transaction (he knows better). The stranger eventually settled for some good old-fashioned pan-handling instead; declined again, sir. 

After walking around and embracing our inner-tourists, we attempted to ride the street car, but sadly, no pets allowed (define pet: I'd almost bet the lucky $20 we found that she doesn't qualify). Instead putting Bella in a canvas bag and rocking a floppy beach hat, we went ahead and drove over to the Garden District to feast our eyes on even more charm. The graceful courtyards and sweeping porches are pure majesty, big and small, and the Southern Belle in me just swooned the afternoon away. 

With all of the beauty came, LAWD, the heat! 

Nothing is as refreshing as a few adult beverages and The Rum House on Magazine had just what the doctor ordered, not to mention outstanding Caribbean food and sweet service!

In an attempt for Dani to truly be able to experience and define for himself "the South", we sought out the town of St. Francisville, home of multiple historical plantation homes. Very unfortunately, all gates were closed upon our arrival (except for a haunted one, pass), so we drove back down to Cajun country to have a traditional Southern meal with our dear friends, the Matte family. Alex, a childhood friend of mine who is like another sister to me; her husband, Curt; sister, Anna; and my precious, 2 year-old godson, Cohen, made our evening such a pleasant one! 

Filled with gumbo and getting sleepy, we got a room in Houston and recharged for our next stop, the "weird" city of Austin, Texas.